Vape Mail 2023

Interesting, I wonder if that was the service pack that was available when I hooked it up? I allowed it to update so that may be it. :man_shrugging:

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How many hits? Mine, has over 550 hits in a charge and 1/2. Running at SS 430 degrees 0.2 Ohms at 45 watts. Not the greatest but acceptable.

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Was fully charged to 100%, ran at 11 watts with 1.1 ohm coil until at 25%, recharged to 100%, ran at 9.5 watts with 1.4 ohm coil, then TC SS316 at 420 and 12 watts with 1.0 ohm coil, now on “watts boost” 10.5 watts 12 Watt boost and battery at 45% with 1.2 ohm coil.

Total puff count since I got it is 802, 5179.4 sec and 15435 mWh according to stats.

So I guess the puff count is similar. Was watching a review which said the Lipo works more for total power than for longevity.

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If I had to guess it’s almost equivalent to a duo 21700 battery mod. Probably somewhere between a duo 18650 and a duo 21700.

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The first 5-10 charges of those batteries wont last long. There is a break in period before they hold a maximum charge. Its pretty much identical to a rc car/truck battery. When you get them they should be in storage mode. You should be fine after some drains and charging

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Cool, I was thinking it strange that it last less puffs than my Lost Vape Thelema Solo mods do with similar builds on them. Thanks for the info. :+1:

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It’s a total of 6400mAh, but should last around the same as 2 top quality 21700’s due to really low voltage sag. And run it all the way down to the check battery message. That 25% is really 3.5 volts. You get check battery at a safe 3Volts. %'s are really only for that icon in the middle.

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Ahhhh, cool. When I researched lipo batteries before purchase a lot of people were saying not to let it drain lower than 20%. I will let it get to the message before next charge. Thanks for the info, I have not used a lipo mod before. :+1::slightly_smiling_face:

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I read somewhere, if you let it discharge too low, it will not take a charge and you will be buying a replacement battery. They said 20% is too low and that the cutoff should be customized to 30%. Is this true?

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I am not sure @JiM210 . There is so much different information out there it is hard to tell. Being the same batteries as RC cars, boats etc, I am tipping they run it down to the lowest they can.

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@Psycho_316 You sound like you have some experience using these batteries with RC. Do you have anything to shed some light on this?

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The big thing with these batteries is some people will tell you to not drain it all the way and some will say to drain it. I know from all the rc cars i had with those batteries longevity was based on making sure the cell was depleted before charging it. So when your car slowed id sit their and drain it while i held the cars back tires of the ground then charge it. By around the 10 th charge i was running it at about 30 min before it died. Compared to 10-15 when i first got it. But the truth is you need to drain it all the way if you do it 10% or 20% you will degrade the cells inside quicker. Its not the same as a vape cell. I never drain my vape batteries to 0. At 10% i charge them. And i have batteries that still rock 5 years later. Knowing this drain it completely and if you have two batteries for it get a external charger to charge the lipo outside the mod while the other is in it

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Am i only one that stalks their tracking number to see when the package is gonna arrive. I shipped from belfast late yesterday afternoon and arrived at delivery depot this morning and i been stalking it every 5 min to see if its going out for delivery. Its been sitting for 2 hrs now no movement :rofl::rofl:

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Let the excitement begin :rofl::rofl::rofl:

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So have you guys ever heard of this dude called ‘Mooch’ ? I dunno, he’s a somewhat battery testing kinda guy. Apparently from back in 2017, he tested some LiPo’s.

Anyway if you remotely believe or trust or want another opinion, here’s his post.
On the left side of his graphs you’ll see the voltage he discharged them down to. Divide by 3 to get the single cell value. (sorry no %'s in his post :crazy_face: )

“Do we need to “break-in” our LiPo batteries?”

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If mooch says it’s so believe him All bow to the Battery God

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Thanks for that, I do tend to believe what Mooch says as he tests pretty comprehensively. It’s an interesting rabbit hole to go down with Lipo batteries for our usage as opposed to RC use.

With the Hadron Pro, it has an output of 400 watts which is definitely overkill for a majority of users. To get this it uses a 4s Lipo battery pack which is essentially 4 x batteries in serial mode to get enough voltage for 400 watts.

This means the individual batteries voltage output is added together but the mAh is basically the base of an individual battery pack (as I understand it). The same way a twin battery mod in serial mode will increase voltage available, but the mAh doesn’t increase as such.

To get longer battery life, you would need a 4S Lipo that is set up in parallel mode which would increase the actual mAh (though not necessarily to 4 X one battery mAh) but would of course limit voltage to the same as only one of the battery modules (give or take).

I think that is right by what I was reading, and for the Hadron Pro it just means the wattage output is huge but the longevity of the battery charge is relatively poor.

Make sense or am I missing something?

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And it has arrived

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He saying 5 years ago his tests mean if your battery sucks its gonna suck because he believes in there is no break in. For all we know the company that made the lipo already did the break in then put in storage mode. I know with rc cars there is always a break in period. Maybe he found something different who knows. All i know was the rc car never dropped the voltage below 3.2v on a discharge and the volts is what matters in lipo batteries

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Well this will be my last post in this topic. Believe who and what you want to believe. Just enjoy your mod. :yum:

I’ve been using my 4 Lipo mods for nearly 6 years.

You have 4 cells each with 1600mAh. Each operating from 3-4.2V . Depending on how a manufacturer designs their board, dual are usually buck only. A few are buck/boost. Bucking voltage is usually (new advances make 'em really close now) more efficient than boosting voltage.

6400mAh is 6400mAh no matter which way you want to look at it. Read above. And that would not be a 4S Lipo. It could be 1S4P. The S in 4S says 4cells in Series.

I’m surprised @Psycho_316 didn’t give any comments.

SteamCrave should be able to answer your queries or there’s an Evolv forum you can search or ask. :wave:

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