My Ni200 just hit the post office sorting facility in Raleigh tonight; hoping for delivery tomorrow! Easy days at the theatre coming up; maybe I can twist some coils there when I’m in standby mode. Have wire, will travel.
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Jim , just wanted to warn you that and @NewDrip that if your post screws let go even a little the resistance will change on the coil but the flask locks it in at the original res so it fires thinking that it still is let’s say .17 but it’s actually .5 or something and you may get the nastiest dry hit of your life. Just happened on my Lemo and I want to puke .
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I’ve been working with the vapor flask a few days now and the temp control with the Ni200 wire is a real cool feature. But I have come to realize the flavor it delivers is not even close to what I’m getting from my Clapton builds with the kanthal. The resistance on the Ni200 is so low that I can only do the regular coils. I did a build last night dual 11 wraps, 32g Ni200 with a 2mm ID for my goblin and it came out at .12 ohms. Flavor and vapor was just ok but not as good as 5 wrap Clapton I took out for that build. For me it’s all about the flavor and I don’t want to sacrifice flavor for temp control. I’m going back to my kanthal. Has anybody else noticed that?
I’ve haven’t really noticed but to be fair Im a fairly simple coil guy. I don’t really have the free time to make the wicked coils like you build . I barely have time to make new juice these days but i have heard others complain of flavor loss .
Oh! What have I done to piss off the Vape Gods??? After a blissful few hours with my Goliath twisted up with Ni200… my Vapor Flask just took a dump! It was working fine and dandy, then…nothing! Looks like I’m about to find out what warranty hell awaits me. Sent Doris, with Focalecig, an email about this issue. As luck would have it, they’re on vacation for the next 4 days!!! Insult to injury!
Doom, Dispair and Agony on me! Deep dark depression, excessive misery! If I had no bad luck, I’d have no luck at all! Doom, Dispair and Agony on me!
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For the love of god no!!!
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Maybe it shorted . Try plugging it in with the charge cord …my istick does that when it shorts
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Mine took a dump and I took the batteries out for couple minutes and then it came back. It was reading atomizer open. Does it read anything at all?
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My charge cable is at the house. I’ll try that when I get home!
I’m letting the batteries charge all the way, first, before I try to power up again. But, like I said, I was vaping along then, nothing. Took the batteries out, reinstalled them, cursed loudly and nothing still.
Poop!
I’ve also read about crap ground connection …I’m sure I’ve seen a how to thread on one forum or another . I’ll keep an eye out . If your willing to open it up . See what happens first I guess
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I’m combing the forums right now, seeing if I can find others that have had the same issue. There are some that purchased from 3F vape saying that 3F just sent them another unit; it wS not required to send the faulty unit back!
I’ve got no problem opening it up, should it be a solder problem. I just don’t know if I should, seeing as how that might “void the warranty” if there is a “tale tell” placed inside the unit to see if folks have opened it up. Don’t know? If you’ve got answers from somewhere, I’ll consider them!
Here is a response I got back from some people who have had issues on ECF.
first step is to see if all four screws on top are tight. Second step is to take out the batteries, then remove all four screws on top, and carefully clean the underside of the top plate where it mates with the main body (mild abrasive pad and alcohol is good for this), and make sure the ground cable looped around the 510 is making good contact (a quick fix is to poke it in with a flatblade screwdriver). While in there, be careful around the ribbon cable for the display, it can be easily broken and the ground wire runs right by it. Once it’s cleaned and you’ve done the best you can on the 510, screw it back together, making sure the screws are nice and tight (use a good tool to avoid camming out the head of the screws).
Optionally, you can run a bead of solder between the 510 cable and the brass nut to ensure a better connection, but I’d hold off on that, as that will for sure void your warranty as it’s easy to spot, just taking the top off and cleaning things is not.
Before putting the batteries back in, clean the contact side of the battery cap, and the threads on both the battery caps and inside the flask as best you can (once again isopropyl alcohol is handy for this, as is an abrasive plastic pad). Use a paper towel to wipe up the alcohol, and keep at it until you stop seeing black on the towel.
Put the batteries back in, cross your fingers, and hit the fire switch.
Thanks for chasing that info down! However, I feel it is the chip. I got home and used the USB cable to plug it in, as you suggested. It powers up and goes through all the motions in all the menus, but reverts back to the “DNA40” start up screen when ever I press the fire button to fire the atty. So, it tries, but never fires the atomizer. I tried kanthal, nichrome and Ni200…same outcome. POOP!
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I’d open it up, but I want to wait to see what Doris has to say about my situation first; I’d hate to void a warranty due to haste and frustration.
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Damn Jim I feel bad …you touched the clouds and then the vape gods stole the variable wattage power away from you ! I hope it can be resolved quick . I guess we will see how focale is with problems . That was my first buy from them and it will be my last if they don’t come through for you .
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I appreciate the thought, but I wouldn’t go that far…yet. We all get “Monday or Friday made things” in our lives. This temp control thing is still very early in its developmental stages. I’m sure Evolve DNA has as many screwed up boards as the Chinese, or so I have read. There are folks out there that curse Evolve like a drunken sailor! I look at it this way, there are way more important things to get “bent” about than some cloned mod. Perhaps I’ll get a new one that works just fine. Perhaps I should wait a bit longer for the DNA board to get all the kinks out prior to falling in love with the idea of a mod that won’t disappoint.
For now, I’ll just go back to what I know and love…a no frills mech mod that works every time I push the button. I predicted that my first VW mod would crap out…and just as I predicted, it happened.
I’ve had gear that sucked from fasttech …what I meant was if they Don’t stand behind the product and make things right !!
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I’m thinking these flasks were pumped out too quickly …mine stopped working for a while …it was pretty low on juice so I thought that was it . I plugged it in and charged fully . It says the res of the coil correct but when you hit fire the temp sets to 600f and won’t fire . I took the batteries out and put them back in and now it is working again but I wonder how frequent this problem will occur