That’s the other one I have 213 you Juggled my memory when u said problems with Temp Control. My only real issue is battery door issues. “Someone shut the dagum door,it’s freakin cold out here” I’ve decided I am going to attempt to order all parts for a Box and build a DNA just not too sure if I can get a 150 chip it’s a WIP. Got a buddy that solders good and I’m sure he’ll put it together for me. I’ll keep posted after recovery from juices. $100 In parts maybe a bit more now though I need 2 batteries, 1 won’t cut it I vape all day. Wife says looks like I’ve got a foreign object protruding outta my mouth. LMAO how dare she
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@Bad_Influence,
Sorry to bother you, I’m kinda lost on ordering I really don’t know which pieces to order I’d like to make a DNA but duel series batteries. Not even sure which box would do it. Could you please lend me a hand at what I need etc… I can’t get a response from @Whiterose0818 must be pretty busy. I’m in the US also,so not really sure who to order parts from.
Any help is much appreciated
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He’s “temporarily unavailable”. Anything more will have to be shared by him or one of his ‘representatives’ (and before some chucklehead assumes the worst… No, he’s not been arrested or incarcerated. Lol - since that is what’s usually implied when one thinks ‘representative’)
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I know that’s the truth, people tend ass u me which makes a “Ass out of u & me” assume.
I was actually thinking I’m having some technical issues with messaging. I’ve sent messages to several people and no response. Maybe I must have not bathed and smell like a sewer rat lmao, that’s why I’m getting no responses or life is priority over DIY. Which I can relate.
I’m thinking I still want to build my own DNA just need some ass is stance on what parts I need. Badinfluance seems to know what he’s doing very well. But , hey people work,sleep & live in different time zones/countries. Just gotta get use to who to bother and at what time zone there in.
Appreciate the response @Sprkslfly
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Interesting discussion. I’d be interested in knowing as well. I like the idea of building a mod.
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Yeah, that’s what I should have said. /facepalm
No problem! =)
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Yeah for real !! Hahaha shoulda woulda coulda story of my Life.
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http://www.modmaker.co.uk/
is a great vendor/manufacturer for diy. They have resources to help u along such as wiring diagrams & 3d print plans. Their facebook page can give u ideas, some wild mods, and the people are friendly to help everyone out.
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Right… I’ve googled around a bit to find the parts in US webstores but i couldn’t find them. I thought NLS enclosures were american made. Perhaps you or somebody else can find them or similar ones. Here’s a list of parts from the UK websites, I’m sure you can find the exact same stuff in the US.
Enclosure:
Dual 18650 DNA75/200/250 NLS G3.5
Use this version for a normal actuator (uses on board fire button)
And this version for an extra fire button (I recommend this version)
Board:
DNA 75 or 250 board, screen and mount kit like this
That’s a kit but you can get the individual parts on some websites. There are slightly different versions of the mounts, depending on the firebutton. If you use a seperate fire button you can use any of the mounts but for the actuator version you’ll need the mount with the cut out between the top 2 screw holes so the actuator fits in.
510 connector:
Here you can go wild, there are hundreds of different ones. Plain, with slots, polished, matte, laser engraved… Just pick one with the correct thread. I’ve bought one that was too long once so there wasn’t enough space on the inside of the box to fit the cabling properly. If you’re unsure ask the guys from the store, they will give you the correct one for the enclosure they sell you.
Actuators:
These are stainless steel but I prefer the acrylic ones because you can see the LEDs on the DNA chip.
There’s quite a variety and you have to think about what you want. You can get them to stick out a bit, flat surface or domed or flush.
If you go for the version with the separate fire button you only need the 2 actuators for the +/- buttons and a fire button.
Again, there are many different ones, flat, domed, raised, all colors. I like the domed ones more than the flat ones. The raised ones are not my cup of tea but that’s something you have to find out yourself.
Battery sled:
I only buy these now. You can use the standard “keystone” sleds but they are a little bit bigger and i always had to sand some of the material off to make them fit. And they don’t have the cut out for the corner were the magnet sits.
That’s pretty much it… You’ll also need some silicone insulated wires. If you can find it by the “highly flexible” version. The difference is that they have thinner wires inside but a lot more than in standard wires. 1.5 to 2.5mm², not sure what that is in AWG. And for the fire button you can use the thinnest silicone wires you can get, there’s barely any current on the fire button circuit. On the 75 Watt version 1.5mm² should be fine but I strongly recommend 2.5mm².
More doesn’t make sense because the pin on the 510 connector is not very big.
Let me know if you have any questions once you’ve found a website with some parts to choose from.
ETA
Just remembered something: If you use the 75W DNA you can connect the batteries in parallel because you don’t need the higher voltage from a serial connection. The advantage is that you can run it with just 1 battery and use the 2nd battery slot for a juice bottle or something. With 2 batteries you just get twice the battery life.
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Time to start searching, thank you for taking the time to do that for me. I’ll keep you updated, progress etc…
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I ended up buying 3 different mods 
one of these mods was a GTRS VBOY 200. I purchased it from ebay. The seller had very good ratings. So, as of now I want to give them the benefit of the doubt. When I checked the security authentication code I got a message that was not clear.
I’m guessing it’s bad translation for "this is not an authentic item. "
Anyone who purchased a GTRS product? share your thoughts on this one.
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I would say that it just means it has already been checked - was the scratch and sniff already scratched? the seller may have checked auth already.
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It means that someone has checked that code before.
I tested the operation of the scratch and sniff once (though I’ve verified several), and the first time I checked an Aspire code, it confirmed that it was indeed an authorized product.
I forgot to screenshot it, and when I went back to do so, I keyed the same code again, and got a similar message as what you show above.
IF there’s a chance that you dropped packets (for instance) and refreshed the page, then that could easily account for the message (since the site may have actually processed the request, but you didn’t get an html page generated thanks to lost packets on the return).
If there was not such an event during the attempt at verification, and you were the one to have rubbed the sticker off, keyed the code, and all went smoothly, and you still got that message then I would be highly suspicious.
But “third party looking in”, all I can do is guess.
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It was not already scratched. I scratched it myself.
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That is exactly what happened. All went smoothly but still got that message.
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Hmm i would suggest that it would be too hard to fake the vboy but who knows with china right. I just checked one I have here and got
‘Hello,this product you checked is an Produced by GTRS,Thanks for your use’
I would contact the seller and ask him about it.
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I get my mod parts off eBay, but there are several places you can get the parts. If you want more help pm me.
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Contacted seller and agreed to return.
Found same product for an awesome deal. $59.99.
With %10 discount came to $53
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It is an awesome mod - not sure why the scratch and sniff was like it was - but I guess it is sorted
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Thank you appreciate all the help. I’m sure I’ll be asking for more advice. 
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