None at all
4 Likes
On a side note pretty much a week and half later and after sending them info they are replacing the mod and sending me a new one. So now the wait begins for it in the mail. The bottles got here in 7 days so lets see how long this takes.
6 Likes
So they sent me a replacement but its not the ss ukiran leather its a absolute shit ugly one that my blue steamcrave will look stupid on i dont have a single rda that will look right on this. I am 
2 Likes
Ok so im just going to trim out a small section of the plastic body as it wont effect the toughness of the mod or strength. But the problem with the mod after taking it apart there was vape liquid underneath the board so this thing wont last regardless. Not with the board being saturated with eliquid. Shame really to find this out by taking it apart
Might need to find a solution to raise the wall here to prevent it from soaking the board
I change my rating after taking it part very poor design in not protecting the circuitry. 3/10. No longevity in this device do not buy this
4 Likes
The more miserable 7 Dwarves.
6 Likes
I’ll have a look but I’m seeing a mod maker 510 conversion a proper bottle and a dna swap 
5 Likes
Its not a bad idea. I could easily try that with my vv pulse chipset and see if i can make it work. Because the pulse had a good system that was dead on accurate. Now you got me thinking
3 Likes
The mod maker 510 or similar would solve the bottle prob and I can’t see why you couldn’t rig the new bottle in the original carrier. Job done
4 Likes
I could use the dna 250 and use that as my board for this thing. No overhaul at just a better board. Im sure the fire button is good just the board is junk. You think it would work
Evolv DNA250C 
2 Likes
I see now id have to modify the mod so the fire button is on side. Unless i could solder to the fire button there and remove the existing one
2 Likes
Nope, not a 250C. Either the 75C or 100C depending on the distance from the center of the bottom button to the USB port. Both have solder points on the side for an ‘external’ fire button.
6 Likes
So i started thinking i was way off because that board is for dual batteries so i was so wrong in that idea. So how do i actually know which one i could use?
2 Likes
100 c 66 mm high 18 mm wide if your worried about the face plate stealth vape has plate covers as well the 250c is 70 mm high and for 2/3/4 batteries configuration by the looks of it
4 Likes
Ill measure the board in the bf mod and get its dimensions. Thanks guys
4 Likes
If you look at stealthvape for the 100C you’ll find the engineering diagram. The 1st is the 100C and 75C side by each, with the 100 being longer. The 2nd diagram has measurements and it’s just under 9mm for the measurement I mentioned.
5 Likes
Just done a deep dive and stripped the mod down .
Quick check for all that have this mod is to take off the 510 plate this gives access to the seal underneath it’s easy only 3 screws if your flooded with juice keep going and strip it all down this is one area that juice gets in if it’s really bad under the side button plate you have to check the board then the last place to look is under the 510 happy squonking
4 Likes
Just sounds like the Drone DNA 250 all over again. Obviously Lost Vape have a design issue they just keep replicating for some reason…
5 Likes
It just needed a full seal under the plate and one on the side plate
5 Likes
When you pulled the 510 up did you notice how easy it came out of the squonk port. There was zero tension. I think the oring isnt sealing it enough. As you do get residual leakage at the squonk bottle and if its there its def going inside the mode under pressure. There was zero liquid at the 510 only underneath the board
3 Likes
Im going to put electrical tape over the hole for the wiring to 510 to buold a little wall up to keep liquid off the board. A little super glue around it to seal it tight. And bobs your uncle
3 Likes