Good to hear. Now get that TF-R2, currently for $10.00 at VaporDNA for this tank and if you have a TC mod that will push it, build a dual 22ga Titanium set up. You’ll look at the stock coils and laugh 
Even if you don’t have a TC mod, that same build can run in wattage mode or even a nice dual Kanthal build.
If not, I’m glad you’re finding that enjoyment!
or 316l SS
. . .I know this is heresy but I think the stock 3 coil is pretty friggin good. The dual deck is nice, I do like it a touch better. I never taste metals, but I can always taste cotton and therefore use hemp. So in my heretical opinion, you dont gain a ton by building your own with this one, other than saving a ton of money. Like I said, heresy, I know, I apologize.
No need to apologize. When you’re a heretic and know it, why apologize? 
You’re right about the triple coil. I did enjoy mine for the 3 days it took for my dual coil RBA to arrive. Never looked back after that. Why? You say you don’t gain a ton by building, but I say the money you save is a ton, and well worth it if you have time to do the builds, etc. Then again, if you don’t have the time, I know that triple coil would do a great job as a stock coil. I would like to try their Ti coils, but I’m not going to unless someone gives them to me. With that dual rba built with Titanium…why worry about their little old razzmatazz coils. Amen, don’t take no wooden nickels, I’m out and vape on brothers and sisters!
Razzmatazz is a registered trademark of vapers all over the American south. 
I actually have a factory Ti dual coil that I bought along with the dual deck, but I havent tried it. I have been so angry with my Cube II that I can hardly bring myself to vape the tank. But you are right, at $5 a coil you can buy 10 feet of Ti wire.
I just got a dual 30AWG spaced Ti coil build at 0.28ohms in a Billow V2 with the short stack and am liking it pretty well. It is the first setup I am using on my DNA200 and here again the temperature control just works without these huge cycles of up and done you get with the Cube II. . .piece of junk that thing. Oh yeah, hemo wick with no leaks where the Bellus leaks like a sieve. I think I may sell my Smok gear and the Bellus if someone wants it. . .the hate is just boiling in me for Smok. . .and the Bellus doesnt seem to like hemp.
I guess I should say that I think Ti is a preferable wire for me because it is made of a single non-volatile element, ie it doesnt contain chromium like all other wires except nickel, which itself is not good to breathe either. So IMHO Ti is the safest wire to vape and that is my main reason in using it.
I traded one Bellus and sold the other. I also got a refund for my broken EXCube 2 and applied it to my 3rd DNA 200. They never asked me to send the EXCube back, so I’m sending it to Asmodus for repairs. Maybe I’ll get a working EXCube out of the deal. Then I’ll sell it brand new in the box and apply that to another DNA 200.
Haha, you decided how much you liked the bellus about as fast as I did. I mean it’s just OK if you dont mind cotton, but I could not make it work with hemp at all. The Billow is definitely a better setup. I’ll build my first Crown tomorrow. . .small deck on that thing.
I see on Google play that over 50k people have downloaded the Smok app and it just boggles my mind that so many people have been completely ripped off. I maintain some hope that they will fix the software. . .but really, we’re talking software (firmware) that is so incredibly stupid it doesn’t know whether the mod is on or off? Really? I know my hope is in vain, these people are un-redeemable. Good luck on a 3rd DNA, man it’s worlds apart, huh? Although mine needed a battery recovery just to get it to charge, which is a little weak.
You have have to change the battery settings for the type of LiPo you have.
Evolv Battery Capacity default is 9 Wh. That need to be changed to your battery capacity.
Cell Soft Cutoff also need to be set above 3 in order to not over discharge your battery. This will eliminate the need for a USB Recovery Charge.[quote=“therabidweasel, post:91, topic:27217”]
Although mine needed a battery recovery just to get it to charge, which is a little weak.
[/quote]
Thanks for the info I have the Lost Vape Efusion with the 13WH LiPo. My cell cutoff was also at 3.09V and when I initially charged each cell was like 1.1xV. . .and it still would not charge until I forced the recovery mode. Maybe I should set it at 3.3 or 3.4?
In any event, it works well for now and I did make the change on the battery pack. Thank You!
That should be good enough…
I won’t ask for a tutorial, but if you could point me in the direction of some walk through that would be great. I ain’t no battery x purt.
Actually cancel that. I found what I needed.
This is what confused me. I have the same mod. Specs say the WH is 14.4 and 1300 mah. What I don’t know is how changing the Escribe software to 14.4 WH will affect performance or charge/discharge once uploaded to the mod, but unless you have a different battery pack, 14.4 is correct.
My guess on the capacity thing is that the internal charging circuit will only push that capacity into the battery to prevent overcharging. Although to my knowledge all Lithium batteries get charged at constant voltage so it shouldn’t matter, but my knowledge on Batts is old.
Thanks for pointing out the capacity…which really should be in amp hours like most batts.
I can’t claim to know this but I’ll be doing some studying.
Sorry, I’m kinda incoherent on forums in general because I bounce around and re-read things a hundred times. I meant that the manufacturer should state the capacity in amp hours and just be normal. . .but for some reason they went with WH. I did not mean to imply that you were incorrect in any way.
I never thought you did. I was stating a fact…when it comes to watt hours, I’m dumb as a brick. But that won’t stop me from learning. You know when a lot of little boys are stuck inside during snow days they would watch TV or play with their Army men, or rock-em-sock-em robots (yeah, back then ) but not me. I would read. And what would I read? Well the dictionary and World Book encyclopedias of course! I love to learn and I think there is a lot of learning for me with batteries - and watt hours, and amperes, and on and on.
OK Encyclopedia boy, here is a quick lesson if you like:
Energy comes in units of Joules. Energy is delivered over a period of time, so you deliver Joules per second. This is called energy flux (flow) and the unit is a Watt. One Joule per second is an energy flux of a Watt. So energy flux is also known as power. As you know, batteries give you a “set” voltage and they can deliver current which is a flow (aka flux!) of electrons. While a volt is not a unit of energy (like a Joule) if we multiply the number of volts times the number of amps you again get power in Watts.
A 2000mah battery (if it were ideal) could give you 0.002A (2mA) for 1000h or 20A for 0.1hrs. . .in theory and all at 3.7V. Watt hours is a new one to me in that I am not sure what voltage they are using in the multiplication The most honest thing would be to follow the natural discharge curve, but more likely they assume a constant voltage of 3.7 or so. If we then consider the same battery above we have a 3.7V x 2.0AH (2000maH) rating is 7.4WH. So a rating of 14-odd WH should be about the same as two pretty average18650s.
Lots of folks probably know some or all of the above, but hopefully this reduces any mystery around battery ratings.
Just to go one further, for those of us running super low ohm builds we should select batteries on a third criterion called ESR - equivalent series resistance. This number is typically so low that for normal things like radios and GPS the resistance of the battery results in negligible voltage drop when the load is applied. However, when you get around 0.2 ohms or so that is around the same resistance of an average battery, I wont go into the math, but if your build is nearly the same as the battery ESR then the voltage of the battery will drop severally and the battery will also dissipate as much heat as the build, it just does it over a larger volume of the entire battery. So low ESR is the reason that Panasonic 25Rs are about the best batteries for the super-sub ohm crowd.
I hope thats helpful for some folks. . .if a bit of topic, geez!
