Best and Worst Mods and Why

@edmanley, welcome!

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Update on this mod… I tried using it again…worked magnificently!!! then the tank leaked again… I swear, I’m going to get some RTV at the automotive store and fill the port with it! I DOESN’T NEED SOFTWARE UPDATES THAT BADLY!!!

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@woftam, it’s got the rubber boot. it seems to seal fine… until the juice flows… I put the 2nd one on during the last time I dried it… then the juice flowed again… guess who’s gonna caulk it shut??? I’ll re-route the micro usb port if I can. The wires are packed so tight and removing the circuit board looks almost impossible to do.

I’d give it a D- for internal design. If you actually look down into it, there’s a gap around the micro USB port. I wouldn’t trust that rubber top at all. If I could make the space available to glue nitrile glove covers over the electronics I would. The only other option is covering the electronics with gasket sealer but if anything gets under the sealant, the unit will be impossible to clean.

I’ve waterproofed things before. This unit is a real challenge because all the wiring to the top is unbelievably short. UGH!!! The wiring is so short inside the metal has already gouged through the wire sheathing. That was the reason I had to take it apart the first time.

If it wasn’t so nice looking and ergonomically designed, I’d have given up on it. I’m getting tired of having to put gasket sealant around the area where all the separations are. I’ve checked those areas and that’s not how the juice is getting in. It’s that port.

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It is not hard to remove the board. The wires are short yes but why would they use longer ones it is not designed to be taken apart once they seal it all up. But since you have torn yours down already you voided any warranty you may have been able to claim (GV are pretty good with claims).

I am not sure that removing the usb plug is a good plan as it may have an impact on other board functions. I cannot see you being able to relocate it either but your mod so have a crack if you want to.

The hardest bit to remove is the battery door sensor there is no easy way to do it and the only way i have found is to de solder the small thin black wire.
Some pics here that may or may not help

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I’ve soldered before. I’m a pro at modifications (people bring me all sorts of things to have fixed or modified). They don’t make the unit in the color I have anymore. It’s actually beautiful. I’ve gotten a lot of comments on it. If I can get around that port sealed up there’s no issues then. so long as the port itself doesn’t leak.

If I could get the circuit board out, I could seal around the back side of it too. The USB port would fill up but that’s as far as anything would get wet. It’s all wedged in.

I think with some attention to detail on the inside and removing some of the aluminum frame to allow the wires to fit, it would be excellent. I’ve just been lazy and not done it right.

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whats the top area where the tank screws in called? one of the heavy gauge wires connecting to it had the wire sheathing cut into by the aluminum due to vibration. I need to clean that up too. It’s all to tight inside. I need to find a way to allow the wiring some room. It’s just going to chew itself apart from vibration.

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Undo the 4 gold screws on the board (under the perpex seal) and undo the 4 screws on the top and the board will come out still attached to the top of the mod after you have either cut or de soldered the thin black wire that goes to the bottom pin. The board may need some gentle persuasion sinde the white sealing silcon will be holding it in place.

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Most likely it was pinched off when you reassembled it last time - there is not a lot of room and you have to get the wire runs exactly as they were. The thin black wire in particular if you dont have it in the small channel that is cut for it down next to the battery sleeve you will put a battery in and not be able to get it back out.

Good luck.

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@woftam, I had to take it apart the first time because it started shorting out. I know. that area for the sensor wire isn’t fun to get back into place. The wire was chewed through by vibration before I ever took it apart. It won’t go back together if you don’t get that thin wire in the channel. everything should slide smoothly back together. I know exactly where you’re talking about. I still have to unsolder that large gauge wire to sleeve it.

I was using it one day and it just powered off. I couldn’t get it to turn back on. That’s why I took it apart the first time. I hadn’t had any juice flow near the port before. I had to put some rubber adhesive on he area the wire was exposed from vibration cutting. after I did that, it worked fine. I use engine gasket sealer that doesn’t stay soft to put it back together. It’s like putting a model airplane together.

I’m sure if I spend the 3-4 hours it will take to modify, fix, and put it all back together it will be great. I just didn’t want to spend all that time. But… It’s to nice looking not to. If I round off some of the sharp edges in it, I won’t have as many issues. Doing only that will make things fit together easier.

It’s a really nice mod. I’d hate to get rid of it.

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@woftam, the Valyrian II (despite all the plastic inside) is actually well designed. I’ve had similar issues with the buttons getting wet. I know all I have to do is seal them by gluing nitrile glove material around them, it will be waterproof. It’s really well designed inside. In comparison, I was quite pleased with how it was designed inside. The only weakness in it is the buttons can get water\juice behind them.

For someone who likes, and can do, tinkering with it to improve it is far more forgiving than the Legend lol.

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Geez, IMHO the root cause is a leaky/leaking atty. That’s what I’d be looking to fix first. :thinking:

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Yes, what @big_vape said.

Also, you seem to be knowledgeable about using gasket maker, some of the RTV Silicone I’ve used has worked really well to plug up areas on some mods (to resist leaking). Why not create a plug with the gasket maker for the opening over the port?

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Sounds like it, yep. :full_moon_with_face:

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@big_vape, I’ve been told that when the coil goes bad they will leak. This mod was sold as waterproof though. I guess that doesn’t include juice lmao!

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Just curious, why didn’t you make use of the warranty?

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Because he don’t need no stinkin’ warranty!!!

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When I contacted them, the warranty work was being done on the Legend 2’s. mine was out from under warranty (1 yr I think is what it is). that’s what they told me anyway. They got kinda nasty with me when I asked where I could get parts. One simple question and I was told to go get the Legend II.

I was rather taken aback by it. No software updates that I can see yet either. The Legend I is discontinued I guess?

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@anon70102222, they would have simply replaced it and not with the color scheme it has. They have limited parts for the Legend I. I called. I wasn’t happy with customer service there.

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So true, and welcome to the forum @edmanley , what I really dislike about the MFENG UX mod is the bottom is not flat and tends to fall over if you just breathe on it, more than once ot fell over on my vape bar and knocked all my other mods over like dominos! :crazy_face:
I am however also a big fan of the FREEMAXMESHPRO and like the single or dual mesh coils!

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Wow … 1 year :astonished:
Thank goodness for the mandatory 2 year warranty in the EU. It is also the trader that supplies the warranty, you never have to deal with big corporations for warranty issues.
But in case a product isn’t sold/made anymore, they can offer you the next model or a refund in return.

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