You mean a wick? 
If you want to call it that LOL I will stick to doing my own and with cotton not silica
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I’ve got a Velocity and a Freakshow for RDAs, that I rarely use for tasting, as I always wanna rewick after different flavors…I might as well commit to a tankful, which mean atleast another commitment to a set of wicks for a tankful.
And I kinda get that all tanks decks are pretty much about the same, but the Orchid wasn’t very forgiving, you either got it right or your juice ports would choke, or it’d piss in you pocket through the air holes.
The Billow v1 was similar, still had to sit the wicks on top of the juice ports, and everything way from the air intake, but not too far either.
And the Goblin Mini follows suit with the juice port, but even closer to the air intake.
Lemos are a little different, but familiar…and honestly, I thought of a Lemo2 when I first saw this Velocity build…there’s more room in a Lemo than that Velocity…makes me wanna build single coil TC coils though, so thanks to the OP
I had to go look I did not want to tell a lie. No little funky coils but a very small spring for something O-rings, extra screws and the wrench. Here is a pic of the little spring next to the little bag of goodies. I have no clue what the spring is for but there is a very tiny O-ring about the same size in the bag.
My Velocity is a Tobeco as well…I buy all tobeco gear, I’m cheap but I really like their quality. I haven’t been disappointed with ANY of their products.
4 orchids, SMPL, Penny, Colonial, Freakshow and Velocity…just great stuff!
And they aways come with extras and extras
@SthrnMixer
Yup, I got the “Styled” one from FT. Thank you for the info! That pretty much sums up my learning curve with the clone, lol. That and the hex wrench fits the screws about like a 9/16" wrench fits a 14mm bolt, but she performs well!
My FT clone came with black O-rings, I didn’t order the kit with the pre-made coils and other stuff and probably saved about .50, lol. I have seen several people complain about the clones leaking, but I haven’t had any problems yet other than the expected slight seeping from removing the barrel(Ive had it for 1 month). When im not using it I just screw the top down snug and lay it in my ecig (paraphernalia) case.
This thing rides around in a Peterbilt truck all week long, and my latest DIY ejuice project rides in a bottle on the dash,lol.
My velocity is from tobeco also. Every rda clone from fast tech for me had problems. Have 2 clone of the tobh…one from fasttech …other from tobeco. You can see the difference. Go with tobeco.
this build is actually quite popular…i’ve seen many many people posting pix of this build on instagram…the huge surface area equates for lots of juice and lots of vapor…heres one i posted back in early september…
not tryna steal your sunshine, just sharing so maybe you can find more examples to offer more ideas…you definitely have the right idea and are definitely headed in the right direction!
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Here you go. So I rebuilt with 24ga Ti, 7.5 wraps on 2.5mm. This is kind of a pain on this little deck but it’s doable. You have to play with it to get it situated just right. Taking your time is key. But you asked about wicking.
Here’s that “bowtie” I mentioned.
Chances are you will still need to trim some, unless you cut too short then you’ll have to re-do it. I try to go long to prevent that. Notice that most of the tails are kind of bulky. More so than is feasible for setting into place. I did have one tail though that was pretty much perfect. Here’s what mine looks like when I’ve set a wick end properly for my wicking style -
Sorry for the blurriness. I didn’t realize it was like that until I had everything done. As you can possibly see, there is a bit of wick down in the channel. The rest is sitting flat on the deck around the wicking channel and none in the threads.
So the ones that are too big/fluffy to make proper wicking possible, I give a little trim. The red line is about where you want to cut -
And you end up with this, much easier and effective for placing the wick properly -
Do these two things with all four channels. The goal is to prevent the free-flow of liquid through the channels while simultaneously allowing free-flow through the wick. It’s a bit of a challenge on this one, but you’ll get the hang of it and it’s worth it too because the vape is fantastic. Doesn’t look bad either.
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I have had some problems with some of the cheap stuff too, but with FT’s 7 week shipping I didnt feel like returning them so don’t really have a legitimate gripe.
Next for me is the Posiedon II RDA, and FT looks like the most logical place to make that purchase based on reviews , as I havent even been able to find an authentic one in stock anywhere (reputable).
If anyone has any better ideas please let me know, otherwise Im gonna pull the trigger Friday, thanks!
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@Whiterose0818 Looking good and I would like to see more picture of velocity builds. The picture posted by @Big_Benny_MI was the first time I had ever seen or heard of building the Velocity this way.
Thanks
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My guess is that tiny o-ring and spring don’t belong. What I think is these factories have some kind of separator machine the drops parts into the bags and seals them. And I’m also convinced these errant inclusions of parts is either a machine malfunction or some dude named Lee who came into work all hungover or is pissed with his 64 cent per hour and just tosses stuff at random into the mix. Either way sounds logical.
Not stealing anything from me. I just wondered why we don’t see more of them. Seems like a flexible use of the space. The mentioned air flow restrictions make sense though.
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Thanks man! I had a funny thing happen at work today. Well not really funny. More sad. Yeah, really sad. Almost depression setting in kinda sad. I usually take my Sigelei 150w with my TFV4 to work. Today I decided to also take the Goblin on my iPV D2. Right after lunch my co-worker somehow manages to drag my Sigelei off onto the floor with a towel or something. Anyway my TFV4 shattered. I picked it up in pieces. I don’t know how, but the glass was the only damage I can see. But anyway, I vaped the rest of the day on the Goblin. I hadn’t been taking cotton with me because I have only been using the quad coils at work. So I was left vaping on a poorly wicked Goblin all day. I was so glad to get home and see you replied. Thanks a bunch man!
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@SthrnMixer - That works absolutely perfectly. I forgot to come back and reply. When I bought my Goblin I got one for a friend too. I explained to him your wicking method and he started wicking. I showed him where to trim the cotton, juiced it up and holy cow that little Goblin hit like a champ!!! I went straight home and wicked mine to perfection. I am going to try wicking some of my other problem tanks this way. Do you wick your Ohmega like that too?
I’m so glad to hear this! With all the bragging I’ve done on the GM I would hate for someone to get it and have nothing but trouble. I’ve made a fool of myself enough already 
With regard to the Ohmega. I had so many ups and downs with that tank. The short answer is yes, pretty much wick it the same. But where I found success (finally!) with it was a combination of using a tad thinner wire (24g) whereas I was using 22 before, and lowering the coil some so my wick tails are shorter. But I’m not the one who can help the most with this I don’t think. @Pro_Vapes has far more successful experience and is using a contact build with Ti wire. Check out his post on the build and maybe too he can weigh in with some helpful advise.
Your wicking method saved my bellus from living in the back of my cupboard 
been fighting with it ever since I got it. Actually gave it a nickname… Spits and swallows or dry hit city hehe
But now it actually is a very nice tank and is once again in my rotation.
Thanks for the help.
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Damn dude, this is an RDA, right? Details please. That looks like steel?